Woman in a floral blue blouse holding a happy face balloon over her face in front of a colorful brick wall with gratified daisies.

How to Break Up With Your Therapist (and Other Unhelpful Thoughts)

Today, I officially broke up with my therapist of ten years. The real deed was done via email—because nothing says “emotional maturity” like a Dear John letter that fits neatly between a DoorDash receipt and a coupon for aromatherapy.

In my defense, I recently found out that I’m neurodivergent. This explains why 90% of my in-person social interactions do NOT go well. So before hitting “send,” I consulted both ChatGPT and my husband, to make sure I wasn’t too direct, too defensive, or too honest. A tall order for anyone, but especially someone whose internal monologue frequently sounds like a squirrel addicted to cocaine.

She suggested we have a final session for closure. I googled “closure,” and it sounded less like an emotional process and more like a subscription box for people who enjoy campfire renditions of Coldplay. I’m more of a want-to-know-why-as-soon-as-possible kind of gal. And I’ve learned that most people (potentially all mentally healthy people??) don’t analyze every decision to check for logical inconsistencies—they just have feelings and do shit based on whatever those wily fuckers suggest.

Closure, it seemed to me, was a sentimental waste of $300 that I could better spend on my latest obsession: finding the most comfortable compression socks. Or as I call them, emotional support hosiery.

But, I thought, maybe closure is one of those human things you’re supposed to try once—like ayahuasca or improv. And I did learn something. Though I’m still not quite sure what.

Me: I want to go over some key terms to make sure I can practice identifying them correctly by myself. What does your “Self” feel like?

Her: Think of it like… how it felt to move through the world before trauma.

Me: But I was told that trauma adds seasoning to life.

Her: Who told you that?

Me: My mom.

Her: When? Recently?

Me: Preschool.

Her: Sigh…

Me: How do I know which is a “Part” and which is the “Self”?

Her: It can be tricky. You need to wait for a so-called Part to say something vulnerable and true—a statement without ego. That’s probably the Self.

Me: OK…

Her: Of course, all the various Parts can also mimic the Self to manipulate you into doing things. You know some of the Parts, but there are many you haven’t yet discovered.

Me: K.

Her: And then Parts can block the Self using defenses. And sometimes you can think you’re talking to the Self, when really it’s a manipulative Part.

Me: So… I could A/B test it by writing down what I think the Self said, then get each Part’s feedback, cross-reference the overlap, and run an integrity check?

Her: I guess that’s one way you could do it. Or you could look inside yourself for the thing that feels pure and true.

Me: I think imma go with the A/B testing. Feelings are just data points with extra drama.

Her: Your greatest strength is your curiosity.

Me: Really?

Her: Yeah. You’re willing to learn hard truths and face cognitive dissonance to do right by yourself.

Me: Jeez, wow. It just feels like I have to analyze everything. Like, is this healthy? Is it projection? Is it a manipulative Part? Is it a Part being manipulated? It’s exhausting.

Her: Yeah, don’t do that.

Her: You have, like, magic.

Her (later): Our work was magic.

Her (even later): You just have this magic.

Reader, though she said “magic” the magic number of times, she did so WITHOUT summoning a rabbit, a dove, or a coherent metaphor. Why is therapy always so disappointing?

Her: You are quoting me incorrectly. I worry because this is our last session, and I don’t want you to walk away with untruths. But I can’t convince you.

Me: I’m not quoting you. You talked about this for like 30 minutes. I’m taking the essence of what you said and amalgamating it into something I can actually use. Then I file that version in my brain cabinet under “Useful” and move on until it’s applicable again.

Her: But it’s missing so much!

Me: Yes, but you talked for HALF AN HOUR. How could I possibly remember everything?

Her: You’re smart! You remember tons of facts and details.

Me: Exactly! Facts! Details! Not abstract feelings that have one answer when Mercury’s in retrograde and another when you’re burning sage. I can’t live like this.

Her: But it’s not accurate.

Me: You are NOT allowed to play the accuracy card with a neurodivergent woman.

Her: You know, I think more like you than you realize.

Me: Oh! You also wonder what you’d do with all the time you would’ve saved if you didn’t have to go to the bathroom?

Her: Oh my god, yes!

Me: And how amazing life would be without emotions?

Her: Agree to disagree.

Her: It didn’t feel good to keep matching your energy. For a long time, it was an organic connection—us enjoying each other’s company. But then it didn’t feel good for me. So I stopped.

Me: So you thought about it, weighed the pros and cons, and decided to show less affect because it wasn’t healthy for you?

Her: Hmm?

Me: Sorry, I mean… how would you handle this? Um, you meditated on it? Reflected on your innermost Self? Made a plan? Because when I decide to change, I research feasibility, estimate statistical success, internalize the goal, execute it, and only revisit it if I’m prepared to make a new analysis.

Her: No, I just felt not great about it for like five minutes and course-corrected. In retrospect, I probably should’ve talked to you about it.

Me in my head: Probably! Given this is therapy and talking is sort of your thing.
Me out loud: Oh.

Her: I didn’t feel like being so lighthearted—laughing over your life falling apart.

Me: Please explain to me why that’s not exactly the right time to laugh.

Her: I’m not afraid of discomfort. A lot of our work has been uncomfortable.

Me: Oh, really?

Her: Sure, tons of times.

Me: So what makes you uncomfortable? Because it seems like I was rewarded for big emotional displays, so it can’t be that.

Her: Curiosity is uncomfortable.

Me: Holy crap, really? I had NO idea. Curiosity always feels like a driving force to me.

Her: Yeah, like when you were a journalist writing an article and it wasn’t coming together and you didn’t know if it was going to work out.

Me: Hmm, so curiosity is kinda like anxiety?

Her: No, more like when you’re unsure if the approach you took will help your client.

Me: So curiosity feels like the fear of the unknowable?

Her: Forget I said it.

Me: Out of curiosity, how do you define hope?

Her: Hope is the feeling that something good will happen.

Me: Hmmm. I think hope is a huge flaw in human logic that leads us to make stupid mistakes. But it probably also keeps us alive. I was going to kill off all my hope, but now I’ve decided to double down on it.

Her: Well, good. Good for you.

Me in my head: Yeahhhhh, boi. Self-sabotage, but make it optimistic!
Me out loud: Thanks.

Her: The cat was making us miserable. I just thought, I have one life, why do I have to suffer? Someone else can give her a better home.

Me in my head: Huh. I see we have very different interpretations of “responsibility” and yours is wildly disappointing.
Me out loud: That’s valid.

Her: I hope you remember that I adored your quirkiness. It was refreshing, and I enjoyed our work together.

Me: You used to say I was dismissive and often offended you by being too direct.

Her: I enjoyed the majority of our work together.

Her: Having this relationship with you for so long… you’ve truly helped me become a better therapist.
Me: Oh, I know. That was the most annoying part. I didn’t even get a continuing education fee.

Her: I care about you deeply.

Me: Aww, thanks. ¡Lo mismo!

Her: Is there anything you’d like to share with me?

Me: Um, no? I think I said it all in the email.

Her: You can also say it out loud.

Me: Ugh, god, why??!! Fine!!

Me: I miss the memory of you. Like, who you were to me before you emotionally checked out. You were reliable and stable when nothing else was. You taught me a lot. It wasn’t all awful.

Her: Mmhm.

Me: Oh! You taught me emotions. That was pretty big! And I learned that love was an OK thing. And I also feel more free now that therapy is over, which is nice. Like, I could never fully be myself because I was always so worried about being misunderstood or stupid or annoying. It’s like… it’s like I was speaking French to you the whole time, and you only understood bits and pieces.

Her: I speak French.

Me: Sometimes when I talk, I can feel myself picking the wrong dialogue option.

Her: You’ll always have a special place in my heart.

Me: I don’t mean to be dense, but that reminds me of a tumor.

Her: It means you’re thought of as warm and won’t be forgotten.

Me: So exactly like a tumor. Cool, cool, cool.

Me: When I was diagnosed, you told me you were “trying hard” to learn about neurodivergence. But you wouldn’t give me specifics. Why?

Her: I figured you should just trust me.

Me: Wait. Trust? I don’t trust anyone. I don’t even trust myself. You know that. And I love specifics. I crave specifics.

Her: I thought our history would count. It seemed invasive and rude to have to list the things I was doing.

Me: Okay, so what did you do?

Her: A continuing education course, talked to many other therapists, went to a conference talk, listened to podcasts, bought books… things like that.

Me in my head: You should get your money back. Needing specificity is Neurodivergence 101, and you did NOT pass.
Me out loud: Impressive.

Her: You have been very special to me. You are just filled with so much wonder, and I see you… hmm… what’s the word?

Me: Exploding? Like a balloon? *gestures

Her: No! Mollie, no, I see you doing great things.

Me: Great things like finally writing that book on aquatic snail husbandry? I’ll put it higher on my to do list!

Her: You’ve taught me a lot.

Me: Like where to get the best period underwear?

Her: No. What? Well, actually, yes.

Her: We had so many moments of rupture and repair. We’ll always have that mutual love and care.

Me: And the mushrooms.

Her: What?

Me: We’ll always have the mushrooms.

Her: Well, I guess. Yes, that, too.

Her: Well, that’s our time.

Me: Okay! Here’s your check. So long, and thanks for all the fish.

Her: Ooooh, wish I didn’t have to bring this up. But what about the check for the session you missed?

Me: ?

Her: Several weeks ago…

Me: Oh. You mean the one session I missed because I was so sick I couldn’t sit up or talk? The first and only session I’ve missed in a decade?

Her: Yeah, hate to mention it. You’ll mail it?

Me: Ahh, yes, this must be a Thursday. I never could get the hang of Thursdays.

It’s funny, the whole “end of an era” thing. Ten years of emotional excavation and all I got was confirmation that the line between genius and insanity is thinner than the toilet paper at a meditation retreat. I still have no idea which side I’m on — or if there even is a side.

I keep waiting for that big, cinematic swell of meaning people describe after major life transitions. You know, that slow-motion montage where you walk away in soft lighting, feeling wiser and freer. But instead, all I feel is the urge to alphabetize my feelings and delete half of them for being really fucking irritating.

Still, I learned something. Not about closure, exactly, more about the industry of therapy itself. Some things are just made for certain people. Like skincare serum commercials or cults — both offer the illusion of improvement and cost way too much. And you’re left wondering if what you got was transformation… or just really flattering lighting and a fresh layer of delusion.

So, yeah. The breakup was successful. And I unlocked the “closure” achievement. Now, to try ayahuasca!

Image Credit: Lidya Nada

How to Paint a Couch or Chair

I watched a LOT of YouTube videos (see below).

I think the videos all used “regular” paint. So all the stuff they did to get it to soak into the fabric like scrubbing and then using sand paper is really unnecessary if you just buy the right paint in the first place.

This dye is great if you’re starting out with a white or gray fabric and going darker.

If you’re starting with a patterned chair or something a little darker, you’ll want a paint like this.

I sealed everything with a color fixant in a spray bottle.

Here are how my projects turned out:

Here are some helpful links: Painting a chair, chalk painting, painting upholstery, dye a sofa, dye a velvet chair

Photo Credit for Featured Image: Taelynn Christopher

How to Write a Will (even if you don’t have a lot of money)

Having a will is a GREAT idea—even if you don’t have a lot of money—in fact, especially if you don’t have a lot of money.

That’s because, if you die unexpectedly without naming your heirs, your money is going to get tied up in litigation, and lawyers are expensive. No matter what amount of money you have, some of it’ll be wasted on fees if you don’t have a will. Plus, your family won’t be able to easily access it to, for example, help with funeral costs or medical bills.

Then there’s the potential for in-fighting over your stuff and the burden of figuring out logistics. Do you really want your family to spend time dealing with your finances and assets when they’re still grieving? And who gets your cat? your dog? your goldfish? These are all things that can be easily, and relatively painlessly, figured out with a will.

How to Write Your Own Will

Getting started was overwhelming for me. This WikiHow link was helpful when it came to understanding the terminology I wanted to use in my will—and how wills are written in general.

Some states have a state-provided boiler plate will so Google search with site:.gov and see if you’re one of the lucky ones! I live in Virginia, which doesn’t provide a boiler plate will *sobs. But my state does subscribe to the Uniform International Will Act.

What’s the Uniform International Will Act, you ask? Basically, a bunch of countries got together in the ’70s and said, “Hey, we should have a universal will so that way people moving around a whole bunch don’t die and leave court systems/their families with a lot of headaches.” That’s in layman’s terms. Since we’re getting technical here, this is a write-up on its actual requirements. The act goes a little overkill on signatures, but it’s pretty easy to fill out once you get going.

Now, the Uniform International Will Act isn’t for everyone. Unfortunately, not all states or countries accept the act so if you’re planning on moving, make sure you’re still in accordance! This is a good blog post explaining the act and its other pitfalls.

Because my will is very uncomplicated, I will be using this act. However, the act alone isn’t a will. So you either have to write your own language or borrow from someone else. I used the California boiler plate will because I like it and then I updated it to suit my needs. Here is the finished product for free in a GoogleDoc so you can use it, if you like.

NOTE: The will must be filled out in your own handwriting. NOT on a computer. The will does not have a section that refers specifically to pets, but I made sure to add a line that leaves my cats to a friend who has agreed to take them in should something happen. I would hate for them to end up in a shelter!

How to Write an Advance Medical Directive

While you’re at it, fill out an advance medical directive form (free from AARP) that will tell your family what you want in terms of end of life care, organ donation and pain management.

Make sure to tell your family members where they can find copies of your will and your directive in case of an emergency! And, for extra bonus points, write out a funeral plan and keep it with your directive. It won’t be a legal document, but it will help your family in a BIG way. They won’t have to guess what you would’ve wanted, taking a huge weight off their shoulders.

Yeah, this is all a pain in the behind to think about—not to mention actually follow through on. But, just remember, you’re doing a good thing for your family, and that makes it all worth it.

MOST IMPORTANT NOTE: I’m not a legal expert, and none of this should be taken as legal advice.

Photo Credit: Melinda Gimpel

If I Die

Let me make this clear, NO this is NOT a cry for help. I just like planning. That includes talking about and planning for my inevitable trip to that great cat cafe in the sky (hey, you have your version of heaven, let me have mine!).

If you’re tasked with planning my funeral, that sucks. It must be like planning a wedding but worse because of all the sad and awful. Sorry you got stuck with the short end of the stick, m’dear. Here, this should make it easier(ish) for you. I present you with my LAST Buzzfeed article, How to Plan My Funeral in 14 Easy Steps:

  1. No one is allowed to wear black. (Well, my mom can wear whatever she wants because she definitely took one for the team popping me out. But, other than that, no exceptions!) My peeps should wear only bright colors or the weirdest clothes (feather boas, fake fur, tutus). Think Burning Man meets Candy Land. Sequins are also very much appreciated.
  2. Please play ’80s and/or ’90s music. If anyone even THINKS about a pipe organ, I’ll know, and I’ll haunt them.
  3. Y’all are welcome to tell stories about how great I was (or wasn’t. I don’t know what old me is all about, but I’m sure she can be a jerkface sometimes!) but there’s no pressure. Short and sweet is just fine.
  4. Everyone gets a goody bag upon leaving. It will include Journeys Greatest Hits, the Kitten Lady book on how to save li’l felines and colorful knee socks (or something similarly quirky). You can decide.
  5. There should be condoms with funny slogans on them for free in the bathroom. I hope this will scandalize half the attendees and encourage the other half to have safe sex.
  6. I don’t plan on having an open bar at my wedding, but y’all, seriously, if I’m dead, please feel free to use my money to get plastered at my funeral. All I ask is that everyone takes Uber home and that drinks include: Dark and Stormies, Amaretto Sours, Russian Mules and Piña Coladas. There must also be a frozen margarita machine. That last one is non-negotiable.
  7. There should also be cake. REALLY GOOD CAKE. And vegan and gluten-free options. Be considerate, funeral planner!
  8. Someone has to give a PSA about menstrual cups, IUDs, male birth control (because that shit should be a THING by the time I die!) and the benefits of going braless. If you’d like to throw in some talk about how to be a good ally/not a sexist asshole, that’d be cool, too.
  9. Please read this eulogy.
  10. I really don’t want a tombstone ’cause I’d like my organs to go to people in need and my body to be donated to SCIENCE! But, if it’ll make the family happy, please turn the tombstone into a stone bench and table. I’m going for a picnic table vibe. And you must picnic on said table. Preferably on Dia de Los Muertos. Please have something odd and unsettling inscribed on the table along with my name, date of birth/death. If it turns out I can’t haunt people specifically, I want the table to do the job en masse. P.S. Please add a QR code ’cause that’d be amazing!
  11. No flowers. My Significant Other is allergic, and the poor guy is going to be having a rough go of it anyway without having to deal with coughing and sneezing. Instead of all that, everyone should donate money to Planned Parenthood or (here’s looking at you, conservative family members) the ACLU. C’mon, I’m dead, just do me this last kindness, yeah? It won’t KILL you! (Just a little gallows humor from the grave.)
  12. My obituary should be exceptionally well written considering I have about a billion writer friends so NO PRESSURE. Please make sure all or at least some of it is in haiku format. Thanks.
  13. To end the funeral, please have Señora May read this poem ’cause we simpatico like that. Then, everyone must sing Bohemian Rhapsody with as much emotion as possible, preferably out of key.
  14. And, finally, if you wanted to rent a dinosaur bouncy house and offer childcare for funeral attendees, I’ll put in a good word for you with whomever is in charge of this whole “life” thing. I know all of you, and y’all could use the bump in karma points! Think about it.

xoxoM

Photo Credit: Billy Huynh

The Do’s and Don’ts of Starting a Passion Project

My passion project is DiverseSources.org, a database of underrepresented experts in science, health and the environment that addresses the lack of diverse perspectives cited in news articles. The database is searchable by expertise, language, location, time zone and other fields to help journalists more easily find potential sources.

I co-founded Diverse Sources so I could work with news organizations to increase the diversity in their sourcing. I provide training and consulting to reporters so they can find more relevant stories and better report those stories.

But all of this didn’t happen overnight. It’s taken years of preparation and hard work to get this far. That’s because passion projects are a lot of work. If you’ve got a passion project in mind but just don’t know how to get going, here are my tips:

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How to Host a Friend Speed Dating Event

Friendship is hard. Once you’re out of the friendship-incubator that is college, it’s tough to meet new people outside your own little bubble. I’m here to help! Friend speed dating is for awesome women who are interested in platonic friendships with other, similarly badass, ladies! It’s a speed-dating format without any of the awkwardness. I’ll be serving up huge helpings of coffee, tea, cookies, doughnuts*—and friendship!

How To

As I planned this event, I relied heavily upon this librarian’s site. She had a GREAT explanation of how the event should flow, and it was really helpful as I planned my own meetup. I made some alterations, like each “couple” got to talk for five minutes. In retrospect, if I’d had a smaller group (we had 16), it would’ve been great to let people chat for even longer!

I printed and cut out groups of ice breaker questions and placed one chunk of questions in front of each seat. I found the questions here and here.

I used yellow sticky notes with arrows to direct people on where to go after their time was up. Then I printed out this star and this arrow for the trickier moves. (See the librarians site above for details on movements!) Overall, the sticky notes and the arrows didn’t help so it’s best if you stand by at the end of each chat to direct people until they get the hang of it.

In case of an odd number of people, I had a “craft station” where folks could either draw or write letters. We ended up not using it. I just filled in to make it an even number until the latecomers showed up. (Note: If you do decide to fill in, make sure you rotate like everyone else! I didn’t rotate for a couple rounds, and it made things a little tricky toward the end of the meetup!)

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cape town, table mountain, south africa

Top Things to Do in South Africa

This is the list I used when planning my trip to South Africa. Scroll through it and see what jumps out at you. Enjoy your trip, and ping me with any questions!

Johannesburg 

Two days is plenty of time to see all that Joburg has to offer. Tack on an extra day to do quirkier trips and explore the city. Uber is the best (and cheapest) way to get around if you’re new to the city and unaware of its good/bad areas, especially since there aren’t that many sidewalks for walking. Make sure your cell phone works overseas without crazy fees because there’s very little free wifi in this city!

  • Soweto
    • “For real insight into post-apartheid South Africa – a visit to the township of Soweto, home to an estimated 3.5 million people – you need to hire a guide. Besides providing a glimpse into how millions of black South Africans live today, Soweto is historically fascinating. Nobel Peace Prize-winners Nelson Mandela and Archbishop Desmond Tutu both lived on tree-lined Vilakazi Street and Mandela’s former home is open to visitors. Left as it once was, Winnie’s military boots stand next to a bed with a jackal-skin throw, and old photos line the walls. Just down the road, the Hector Pieterson Memorial Museum, named after the 13-year-old whose murder by police sparked an uprising in 1976, is another hard-hitting reminder of the horrors of apartheid.” –Condé Nast Traveller
    • The guided tour of Mandela’s home is simply a memorized speech of significant dates. It’s interesting, but don’t expect it to take more than 20 minutes at the maximum.
    • The Hector Pieterson Memorial Museum was fantastic. It did a great job of explaining the uprising and its aftermath. All the feels.
    • I was skeptical of paying $70 to take a tour of Soweto, especially when I’d been told that it’s fine to walk around in the daytime. But I’m really glad we went with Township Travel (Siphiwe Kumalo info@township-travel.co.za sowetour98@gmail.com). The tour offers perspectives, not only from the tour guide, but from residents in their early 20s who take you around their neighborhood and answer all your questions. I highly recommend it!

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How to Get Into (and Around) Lima From the Airport

Don’t rely on your hostel/hotel’s transportation! They’ll overcharge you, and getting a taxi at the airport is simple.

Take Green Taxi from the airport to your destination. It’s 50 soles (Peruvian currency) or $20.

Fifty soles is the better deal. You can exchange some money at the airport, and then exchange money on the street later where you’ll get a MUCH better rate. (NOTE: Most people on the route to Machu Picchu accept cash only!)

To get back to the airport, use a service called EasyTaxi. Download it to your phone, type in your location, and a safe cab will pick you up within 5 minutes. Getting around Lima shouldn’t cost you more than 20 soles (~$6). The app even tells you how much the fares are beforehand so there’s not confusion, bargaining or cheating!

The app gives you the option to connect your credit card, but just pay in soles for everything. Also note that cabbies rarely have exact change so try and carry as many coins as possible.

You can also use EasyTaxi to get around Lima and Cusco. You should avoid using local cabs because it’s oh-so common to get robbed in a cab.

How to Talk Your Way Out of Anything: Part I

Nothing is logical in Peru.

The U.S. has its problems, of course, but I like to think it’s governed by a system that’s fairly rational. Businesses usually operate 9-5, Monday through Friday. The water is safe to drink; the food safe to eat. The grocery store will sell you food, and the post office will take your letters. There’s a sense of order, place and time.

South Americans aren’t governed by such rules or, rather, any rules at all.

Everything about living here is complicated. Every. little. thing. Want to mail a letter? The post office may have moved down the block without notice. The landlady says she’ll get here at 3:30 p.m.? Don’t be naive—she won’t show till tomorrow evening. Need directions to the bus station? People will make up fake routes. Want to buy some chicken from the store? The cashier doesn’t know the cost so you leave empty handed.

It’s amazing how much time I’ve spent thinking/worrying/raging over simple, everyday things. To succeed in Peru, in South America, you have to drop all notions of logic—and start playing the game yourself.

I’ve noticed that the people here are masters at talking their way out of anything. After nine months in Peru, the young padawan has graduated, and I’ve come up with a list of my own tricks. Enjoy.

Smile Like a Crazy Person

If you smile REALLY big and speak in a high-pitched voice that bubbles and gushes every third sentence, you can talk your way out of anything. Bonus points if you’re wearing gringo pants.

After spending four hours in a tiny Peruvian airport with exactly two waiting rooms, I wanted to walk around outside, which (of course) was forbidden. But it was sunny, and there was a puppy waltzing around in the grass so obviously I made a break for it. After 15 minutes of freedom, a man came up to me in protest. But when the corners of my mouth are kissing my ears and ponies and rainbows spewing from my mouth, it’s difficult for people to say no. Thus a long, boring afternoon was instantly more interesting.

Deer-in-the-Headlights Approach

When someone yells at you to stop doing something (as is often the case for a journalist trying to get a closer look) you’d have to be pretty dense to not catch their drift. But when you adopt the deer-in-the-headlights look, life suddenly gets a lot easier.

I’d suggest practicing in the mirror until you’ve nailed your Blue Steel. Half the time DIH makes me look pathetically lost and the other half I come across like I’m having an episode. Either way, it works, and people usually leave me alone.

Speak in Tongues

Another benefit of having locked down the gringa look is that people expect you to be a Spanish fail. When someone insists on having a conversation I don’t want to have, I make as many basic Spanish errors as humanly possible. Then I randomly mix verb tenses until I see steam emanating from their ears upon which I abruptly stop everything and walk away.

Problem solved.

Fill Them with Regret

The other approach is to talk. And talk. And talk, and talk, and talk. Answer their complaint so thoroughly and exhaustively that they forget what they were upset about in the first place and can only focus on getting rid of you. It’s a pretty gutsy move that requires some fast-paced BS, but if you’re quick on your feet, it works wonders.

On my last trip to the Andes, I was cold and requested a blanket from the hotel. The front desk told me “it’s not cold” and promptly hung up. I talked to him for 15 minutes straight. I went to bed cuddling up to two blankets. #cantstopwontstop

And that, ladies n’ gents, is how to talk your way out of (or into) anything… Part I.

galapagos, viewpoint, ocean

Planning for a Last-Minute Trip to the Galapagos

The Significant Other and I just got back from a trip to the Galapagos. Rather than gush about HOW COMPLETELY AND UTTERLY AMAZING IT WAS, I’m offering some tips to make your vacation planning easier. The devil is in the details! I think this is pretty extensive, but drop me a line in the comments if you have specific questions.

Booking a Last-Minute Galapagos Cruise

Cruises sound expensive right off the bat, but when you consider how much it costs to explore the Galapagos on your own, cruises can actually be cost-effective. For example, a day tour of North Seymour Island is ~$160. Add $20 for the hostel and $10 for home-cooked food. Factor in all the time and energy you’ll spend booking your own trips, and you’re already pushing $200. When you do the math, cruises aren’t that pricey.

NOTE: It’s impossible to base your budget off anything you read online or in a guidebook. Prices are constantly going up. Keep that in mind, and always bring extra cash in small bills $1, $5, $10.

If you can wait until two weeks before your vacation date to start looking for cruises, you can snag amazing discounts (~60 percent!). Book a flight to Quito, and stay at a hostel in the Mariscal District (NOTE: We stayed at the Traveler’s Inn. The breakfast is free and includes eggs, toast, yogurt, fruits, juice and tea/coffee. The wifi is incredibly slow, and the showers are luke-warm.) This is where all the tour companies have offices. Visit each tour office and see what kinds of deals they’re offering. Tour offices are generally open between 10 a.m.-12 p.m. and from 3 p.m.-5 p.m. They will NOT be open after 12 p.m. on Saturday or at all on Sunday.

Please be aware that all tour operators expect you to pay in cash for the tours—even if it’s a couple thousand dollars. Luckily for U.S. citizens, Ecuador operates in American dollars.

Most tour companies will offer to book the flight for you. I booked the flight on my own so I’m not sure how cost-effective this is, but it’s definitely an option.

NOTE: We almost booked a cruise with Yate Darwin and would highly caution against it. There were many frustrating problems, which I won’t go into here. We ended up booking a four-day Angelito cruise using PalmaRoja Tours. I can’t recommend the Angelito highly enough. The staff was incredibly friendly and helpful. I have several food allergies, and the cook made special meals and snacks for me every day. I never had to worry! It was amazing. Plus, our guide Maja, was the best guide I’ve had in all my years of traveling. Really fantastic company.

If you can’t find a tour you like in Quito, you can hop on a plane to the Galapagos and head directly to Puerto Ayora in Santa Cruz. Tour companies also have offices in this city and will offer deals.

sea lion, galapagos

How to Pick a Galapagos Cruise

After days of research, all the cruises started blurring into one, and I suffered from information overload. I recommend picking the cruise based on the ease of access, animals you want to see, cruise size, days at sea and budget. Make a spreadsheet and assign points—it’s the only way to stay sane.

  • Ease of Access: You can (to my knowledge) take day trips to Santa Cruz, San Cristobal, North Seymour, Floreana, Bartolome, South Plaza and Santa Fe. We chose cruises that took us to islands we couldn’t reach on our own, like Santiago and Espanola.
  • Animals: Each island is known for specific animals. No guarantee you’ll see them, of course, but there were a few endemic species that I was dying to see. For example, North Seymour: blue-footed boobies and frigate males, Santa Cruz: tortoises, Espanola: albatross, Santiago: iguanas, Santa Fe: iguanas. The cruise that promised the most animals won.
  • Cruise Size: Pay attention to the number of people on the boat. Our head count was 16, and it was perfect. Anything larger, and you’re going to get lost in the shuffle. Anything too small and your boat will be so tiny that it bobs up and down with each and every wave. Ugh.
  • Days at Sea: I’m the kind of gal who likes her feet firmly planted on the ground. It was important that we got to see what we wanted to see but didn’t spend unnecessary time on the water. We ended up with a four-day cruise, but I think we also would have enjoyed a five-day. NOTE: six- and seven-day cruises are rare. It’s usually four, five or eight days. Also remember that a “four-day” cruise is really just two days because the cruise doesn’t start till late afternoon on the first day, and ends before 10 a.m. on the last day.
  • Budget: Go in with a budget for your cruise, and follow it. I had tour operators send me “deals” that were two- to three-times more than my max budget. It was tempting, but I had to put my foot down.

frigate, galapagos

Getting to the Galapagos

Flights to the Galapagos: There are two airports in the Galapagos: Baltra and San Cristobal. If you’re thinking of taking a cruise, fly into Baltra. Most (if not all) of the cruises start/end there.

Three airlines go to the Galapagos. TAME appears to be the cheapest at first-glance, but they tack on a whole bunch of fees at checkout that actually make them more expensive. I used Avianca for the most cost-effective flights.

NOTE: Don’t forget that there’s a $120 fee to get into the Galapagos. Airport officials will also search your bags for fresh fruit and animal products. I would highly recommend bringing in your own snacks since healthy food is hard to come by on the islands. They’re OK with dried, packaged fruit, granola bars, even peanut butter sandwiches! If you don’t want your bag locked with plastic ties after getting searched, tell the officials. Keep a pair of nail clippers in case they lock your bag anyway.

Getting into Santa Cruz from the airport: You’re not allowed to walk around Baltra because it’s a military base. You’ll take a short (free!) bus from the airport to Baltra’s dock. A $1 ferry will take you across the river to the island Santa Cruz. From there you can catch a (~$5) bus or take an $18 taxi (in total NOT per person) into town. It’s a 40 minute drive via taxi and longer with the much slower bus.

Taxis are poorly labeled, white Toyota pickup trucks.

Taxis in Santa Cruz: Once you’re in town, taxi rides should be about 50 cents per person up to $1 max. Taxi drivers often pick up multiple people so don’t be alarmed if a few strangers hop into the cab.

Snorkeling tips: Snorkeling is transportation, right? A few tips to enjoy your snorkeling experience: Try on your mask before leaving land. If you can press it to your face (without using the straps) and it stays in place, it’s a good fit. If you need glasses, bring your own prescription goggles as there aren’t any (that we saw) on the islands. Or you can make your own prescription goggles. Spit on your lenses or use baby shampoo to keep them from fogging up. If you have facial hair, your mask might not fit well. Slather on some vaseline to help make the seal. Your flippers shouldn’t fit comfortably when you’re on land. They need to be a little tight because they’ll loosen up in the water. Check the snorkel mouthpiece to make sure it has two notches to bite on. I’d recommend renting a full-body wetsuit for sun protection, added buoyancy and extra warmth (the water can get chilly).

Galapagos

Things to Do in the Galapagos

I’ll write another post with an outline of our cruise. These are the two day trips we took outside the cruise.

San Cristobal

We went snorkeling off Kicker Rock and explored Cerro Brujo beach for $100 with the tour company Cindy Sol. They were very professional and served a delicious lunch. I would highly recommend their services. I don’t have the cross street for the company’s office, but the harbor area is tiny (only ~five blocks) so you can either ask for directions or walk up and down the streets until you run into Cindy Sol). NOTE: Tour agencies close in the afternoon to avoid the heat and open up again in the evening. I’d recommend booking a day trip the night before. However, most tours leave at 8:30 or 9 a.m. so you can also show up at the office around 8 a.m. and book any available seats on the spot.

Stay at Casa Mabell for $20 per person. The hostel doesn’t have a microwave, and the owner doesn’t speak English. But the place is spotless, has AC, is two minutes from the shore, and if you can speak a little Spanish, the owner will help you book tours.

Get your laundry cleaned for $1.50/kilo at La Lavanderia Rosita. We gave our clothes to them at 8 p.m., and they had everything done by 3 p.m. the next day. Great service.

North Seymour

Booked this tour with Esmeralda III. We wouldn’t recommend this boat. The guide was unnecessarily rude. The tour also promised to take us to North Seymour in the morning (better wildlife pictures!) and then snorkeling in the afternoon (cooling off!). Instead, we spent far too much time snorkeling in the morning and saw no wildlife. Then, during the heat of the day, we were rushed around North Seymour. I absolutely loved the island (we saw blue-footed boobies and frigates!), but go with a different tour company.

Signing off for now! More tips later, and please add your own!